The Serra de Monchique comprises two peaks some 900m high overlooking the western Algarve. The exposed granite‑like rock becomes white and crumbly as it weathers into clays; rainwater percolates through and gives the many springs a distinctive mineral composition rich in chlorides and sulphides. The Romans turned the place into a health spa and the bottled spring water is now sold for drinking in the local towns.
These mountains form one of the classic botanical localities of the Algarve, though most of the original oak forests that clothed the hills has been replaced by extensive plantations of Eucalypt and pine. Olive groves and cork woods are grown to an altitude of 550m, while there is still some chestnut coppice in a few areas. In between the trees are the luxury homes of north European expatriots and Algarve businessmen, and the roadsides carry the colours and scent of introduced Camellia and Acacia trees.
It is too windy and grey to attempt to photograph the spectacular displays of lusitanian heath and Erica hibernica which try to brighten the hillsides. Another colourful plant, Rhododendron ponticum, which is invading many upland areas in Britain, is a native here; and the strawberry tree also groes luxuriantly; a brandy is distilled locally from its berries.
Perhaps the birds have also decided that it is too cold and windy, and have gone into hiding for there are few to be seen, and then only briefly.
The winter bird atlas produced by A Rocha Trust mentions scops owl in the foothills of Monchique and Jim is determined to try to hear them. I had my doubts, but am pleased to be proved wrong. We drive along a dirt road and stop near an orange orchard. At about 6 pm Jim picks out an unfamiliar sound amongst the cowbells, caterpillar tractors, barking dogs etc. We listen closely and time the calls to every 5 or 6 seconds; then another joins in. The calls seem to come from some trees about 100 m away. Suddenly the calls come from much closer: two birds with different voices ‑ male and female duetting. The original callers can still be heard in the distance.
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